History Bottled.
Žilavka
Times I personally spent in BiH were on the restaurant patios in the hot, summer heat sipping cold Žilavka. The condensation on the glass dripping down on to the table, and my girlfriends dropping a single ice cube into the yellow-green liquid to keep the wine as cold as we could.
The wine has the body and intensity of flavors to endure a bit of dilution, but the tropical profile was a gorgeous evening treat with fresh octopus salad topped with capers and lime.
Grape Profile
The story is Žilavka is an old one, but the details of its history and importance in the wine industry of Bosnia-Herzegovina (BiH) is not recorded systematically until the 1878 Berlin Congress annexed the winemaking region of Herzegovina to Austro-Hungarian Empire. [1]
Žilavka was tested, along with other indigenous grapes, namely Blatina, by the experts sent from the Hapsburg and they determined that Zilavka was an exceptional grape and invested in it as the future of wine in the Empire. [2]
The Empire exported these wines to Germany , Switzerland, Spain, America, Japan and beyond and they earned awards in Paris, Vienna, London and beyond and awarded top prizes in the early 20th century.
Today the grape is treasured for both its legend and tradition in BiH winemaking. Almost every vineyard grows Žilavka as a perfectly adapted vine to the hot climate. It’s a favorite of winemakers as noted by Caroline Gibly, “I asked the local winemakers over lunch near Mostar about their favorite grape and every time the answer was unhesitatingly Žilavka, several claiming it has the 'highest potential in the Balkans'.”[3]
The Grape:
Pronunciation: Bosnian is a dialect of Slavic family of language and although it is a phonetic language, there are plenty of accents and consonants to intimidate just about anyone! The good news is one grape name at a time is a great way to learn!
ZHI-luv-kah
Meaning: Žilavka as a name has multiple meanings--
The root word, žile, means a root or vein which can refer to the veins
of leaves on plants and/or root systems. The word is modified with
additional description (ending indicating big and small, thick or thin).
Žilice is a small root or small vein, the ending -iće indicates small in
size. As such, Žilavka means wine from roots or veins referring to both:
1) žile: the deep rooted system that reaches into the ground for water
means “strong roots” as a description of the vines' nature to root very
deeply into the ground. This characteristic means the vine is drought
tolerant and its roots dig deep for water.[3] So tolerant, the vines grow in fields of limestone rock.
2) žilice: the small visible veins you can see through the grape skin.
A grape by any other name: Jilavka, Mostarksa, Mostarska Žilavka as listed in Wine Grape by Robinson, Harding, Vouillamoz. [4] They did not mention Protected Denomination of Origin (PDO) labeling or the like which started in 1970.
The synonyms here all have explanations--
-
Jilavka is a simple phonetic translations-- the sound for "J" and "Ž" which sounds like a soft 'J'
-
Mostarska as a synonym for Žilavka is simply because the wine grape is the most famous reference for wine from Mostar.
-
Mostarska Žilavka simply indicates Žilavka grown in Mostar.
In 1970, the name Žilavka was protected and in 1973, Žilavka Mostar was protected as a superior vine. Žilavka was protected in name, quality and origin as one of the first continental Yugoslav wines. [5]
The Law on Wine, Brandy, and other Alcohol products ratified March 25, 2008 in Bosnia-Herzegovina does outline a PDO and "recognized geographical origin" referred to in English as a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). [6] While the national law is harmonized with EU labelling and requirements, labelling is not uniformly implemented throughout the country as wine legislations is not totally harmonized across governments in BiH.
In the Bosnian language and associated acronyms are:
a) zaštićeno geografsko porijeklo (ZGP)
b) priznato geografsko porijeklo (PGP) [7]
This is consistent among slavic countries. The more Balkan wine you drink and research, you'll see these classifications in Slovenia, Croatia and beyond.
Quality is signified on the label with both the names and a three tier system.
Where it grows: Although autochthonous to Bosnia-Herzegovina, the grape thrives now in a few more countries in the Balkans. Žilavka grows in North Macedonia most widely. [8] The vine is also planted in Montenegro, Kosovo, and North Macedonia and probably more. [9]
Flower Type: Hermaphrodite, self-pollinating
Color: light green/yellow skin
Shape: Round, tight clustered berries
Soil: The grape can grow in shallow soils, but the starkest
sight is vines growing in fields of limestone. White grapes,
green leaves and what looks like snow on the ground is
chunks of limestone.
Acid: High acid
Harvest: Late ripening
The Grape into Wine:
Wine Color: Intense Yellow that changes with the winemakers decisions. With maceration, oak aging and time. The wine is often described to have flecks of green
Nose: Pronounced aromas Nutty, sweet citrus, stone fruit
Palate: Medium + to High Acidity, Pronounced flavors
Rich nuttiness, lemon apricot, sweet citrus, green tropical fruits, star fruit, green melon
Aging: Notes of nuts and apricot become more pronounced with time, wild honey
Wine-making: Žilavka can be viewed much like Chardonnay in that it has hearty and complex character and its acid allows the wine to be enjoyed young and fresh, oaked and/or aged. When oak aged, the term "barrique" is used.
Malolactic fermentation and lees contact is also a likely winemaking decision to balance acidity.
Žilavka is presented as a single varietal wine and blended with other local varieties, such as Bena and Krkošija.[6]
[1] Herzegovina Wine Country, pg. 37.
[2] Herzegovina Wine Country, pg. 26.
[3] https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/bosnia-herzegovina-crossroads
[4] https://www.vinorandum.com/grape/zilavka
[5] Herzegovina Wine Country, pg. 31.
[6] Službeni Glaski Bosne e Hercegovine, YearXII No. 25, March 25, 2008. pg. 2
[7] Službeni Glaski Bosne e Hercegovine, YearXII No. 25, March 25, 2008. pg. 2
[8] Robinson, Harding, Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes, 2012. pg. 1174
[9] Robinson, Harding, Vouillamoz, Wine Grapes, 2012. pg. 1174
Wines of Illyria Žilavka
Produced by Čarski Vinogradi in Herzegovina wine making region, 95% Žilavka and 5% Bena,
this is a fresh and lively orange wine-- following the crush and de-stem, the mash cold soaks at
10 °C for 10-12 hours and after racking from gross less, the wine matures from 6-12 months on
fine lees.
Notes of wild honey, sweet citrus, green tropical fruits, star fruit, green melon, slight effervescent
texture with refreshing, balanced acidity that elevates the fruit aspect. Mid length on the palate. The
acidity is perfectly integrated, revealing an elegant wine with beautiful structure. This typical warm
climate white variety gives wine that is crystal clear, greenish-yellow in color with rich, nutty flavor.
EMPORIA Žilavka pairs perfectly with mild cheeses, fish and white meat specialties. The harvesting
of grapes begins early in the morning so as to take advantage of the natural temperature of grapes. [3]
Use code: WINESOFTHETIMES for a 10% discount online!
[3] WinesofIllyria.com
