VukojE "Carsko Vino" Single Vineyard, Aged Žilavka
- heidiwinesofthetim
- Apr 14, 2024
- 3 min read
There are some wines that are so rare, so once in a lifetime that you hold them for as long as you can until something in your brain says, "you need to open this. Hoarding it won't keep it alive."
At least that's what my brain said once I moved into a new house and stuck the only I had of the bottle of single Vineyard Carsko Vino Žilavka produced by Vinarija Vukoje from their prized Carski Vinogradi "Ušće" site.
First, a language breakdown before we dive into the history!
Carsko Vino is the name of this wine and it means Imperial or Royal Wine in Serbo-Croatian and Bosnian (i.e. the local languages).
Carski Vinogradi means Imperial or Royal Vineyard.
According to google, which I will verify with native speakers, Ušće means estuary, the tidal mouth of a large river where a smaller stream meets.
Podrum means Cellar.

The Site
Situated at the mouth of the Trebišnijica river and the small Sušica river, the Ušće site in the Lastva area is one of the Austro-Hungarian historical vineyard sites that produced Žilavka for the Royal Palace in Vienna following the annexation of the region by the Empire in 1878 (pg. 37, 517.)
"The plantations of grapevine in Gnojnice and Lastva did not become known among people as "emperor's vinyards" for no reason," author's write in the "Blatina and Žilavka-- Fruits of the century old development of viticulture in Herzegovina" in Herzegovina Wine Country.
Following the Berlin Congress of 1878 which gave the Austro-Hungarian Empire "a mandate" to "restore order" in Bosnia and Herzegovina, they immediately established fruit and wine outposts, which included Lastva, a mere 10 kilometers from Trebinje. Their intention was to study and select local grapevines, introduce and test new varieties in the soil and climate, study and cure grapevine diseases and pests and improve the local wine quality. (pg. 38-39).

The Winery
Podrum Vukoje, Vukoje Cellars was established in 1982, has vineyards in two locations that are worth a visit: Ušće and in Trebinje. 1.5 hours from Dubrovnik by car, it's very easy to justify the trip for a day.
Podrum Vukoje in Trebinje is simply awesome. Enter the address into your navigation and you cannot miss it-- a huge green warehouse surrounded by vines and sheep.
They make cheese and honey as well as wine and spirits just outside of the town of Trebjine.
Then you can voyage into town to check out their restaurant and in the basement is where they have a wine library, and many many oak (slavonian and french) for wines to age.
Their commitment to quality is not to be underestimated as they produce very little of each vine, but they have a vast selection of amazing native varieties.
Their restaurant will pour a flight so you can taste the rainbow and wow, their food is incredible. Their handmade cheese from the adorable sheep you see in the IG reel is also available. Take me with you with you when the go!
Oh AND they sell olive oil from the olive tree groves that are also in the reel. Biodynamic anyone?!?
Okay-- the wine. Let's talk about this beautiful and intense wine.

Carsko Vino Grand Cru 2018
Grape: Zilavka, see my Grape Profile and possibly Bena (another BiH variety)
Vintage: 2018
Producer: Vinarija Vukoje
Vineyard Site: Carski Vinogradi "Ušće" Vukoje
Appearance: Gold, deep yellow
Nose: Lemon preserves, baked apple, ginger (baking spice)
Palate: Golden apple, golden pear, Medium high acid, apricot, orange marmalade, pineapple upside down cake (without the cherry)
Winemaking: Matured in new "barrique" barrels for 12 months; manual collection of grapes
Of Note: The composition of Žilavka and Bena (93% Zilavka, 7% Bena) is said to be the the same as the wine sent to the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy and was the official wine of the Royal Palace.
Releases: Select vintages only